Bayinbuluke Travel Guide: A Comprehensive Guide to the Nine Turns and Eighteen Bends, Swan Lake, and the Duku Highway

Every year in mid-August, something happens only on the grasslands deep in the Tianshan Mountains of Xinjiang. The setting sun follows a specific trajectory as it sinks below the horizon, its reflection simultaneously captured by the nine consecutive bends of the Kaidu River. Suddenly, nine suns appear across the entire grassland, illuminating each other, burning silently, and then vanishing just as quietly. This spectacle lasts no more than two minutes.

 Bayinbuluke is the only place in the world where you can see nine suns. 

What is Bayinbuluke?

Bayinbuluke Scenic AreaLocated in Hejing County, Bayingolin Mongol Autonomous Prefecture, Xinjiang, Bayinbuluke is a high-altitude basin grassland surrounded by snow-capped mountains in the middle of the Tianshan Mountains. With an average altitude of about 2,500 meters and a total area of over 23,000 square kilometers, it is the second largest grassland in China. The Mongolian word "Bayinbuluke" means "abundant springs," derived from the unseen springs that nourish this boundless green landscape.

The Kaidu River flows through the entire grassland and eventually heads east to Bosten Lake, China's largest inland freshwater lake. The river flows freely across the grasslands, meandering into beautiful arcs that are difficult for humans to replicate, hence the name "Nine Bends and Eighteen Turns". This river also has another name in "Journey to the West": Tongtian River.

The Torgut's Return East: Another Chapter in the History of This Grassland

Few people know about Torghut before visiting Bayinbuluke, but the story is almost as noteworthy as the winding and meandering mountain road.

The Torgut tribe was an ancient branch of the Mongol people. At the end of the Ming Dynasty (1628), they left their homeland in Xinjiang and migrated to the lower Volga River and the Caspian Sea coast, settling there as nomads. In the 1760s, the Tsarist Russian government intensified its political and cultural oppression of the Torgut. In 1771, Khan Ubashi led 170,000 people eastward, traversing deserts and steppes, breaking through the encirclement and suppression of Tsarist Russian and Cossack armies. The journey lasted six months and covered thousands of miles, completing the last large-scale migration in human history. Upon reaching their destination, fewer than 70,000 remained.

 The Qing government settled the Torgut people who returned east in the Bayinbuluke Grassland, and from then on, this land belonged to them. 

The Barunkure Temple within the scenic area is one of the seven mobile temples that the Torgut people carried with them on their eastward journey, and it is the only one that still exists. Every year on the fourth day of the sixth lunar month, the Torgut people hold the "Taghlen Festival," which includes horse racing, wrestling, and archery to celebrate the end of their journey eastward.

Nine bends and eighteen turns: How to see them and when to see them

Where is the observation deck?

After purchasing tickets in Bayinbuluke Town and entering the scenic area, transfer to the scenic area's shuttle bus (90 yuan/person), which travels approximately 30 kilometers to reach the Basilike Viewpoint. After getting off the shuttle bus, you'll need to walk or ride a horse up the hillside to reach the viewpoint facing the entire...Nine bends and eighteen turns of the riverThe wooden boardwalk extends along the hillside, offering panoramic views from every vantage point. Photographers can choose their spots in advance based on their desired composition.

When will we be able to see nine suns?

The best time to visit is around seven days after the Mid-Autumn Festival each year. On this day, the direction of the setting sun forms a specific angle with the central axis of the winding river, and the sunlight refracts through the water, simultaneously reflecting the sun's image on the nine consecutive bends.

The sunset itself occurs between 8:10 PM and 8:45 PM (slight variations may occur depending on the date), and the entire reflection spectacle lasts no more than two minutes. It is recommended to arrive at the observation deck before 5 PM to secure a good spot and wait. The sun was setting faster than I expected, and the consequence of dawdling was that I didn't get any photos. 

Is a regular sunset worth going?

Even if it's not that specific August date, the sunset over the winding river is still spectacular. Whenever the setting sun spreads its orange-gold light across the entire grassland, the meandering river seems to ignite in sections under the light, and with the silhouette of the distant snow-capped mountains, this scene is hard to describe simply as "it's a pity we didn't see nine suns."

During a specific time in August, nine suns are simultaneously reflected on the winding river, a spectacle that lasts for no more than two minutes. (Image source: Ctrip)

Swan Lake: Asia's largest swan habitat

Bayinbuluke Swan LakeIt is the largest swan nature reserve in Asia and the only one in China, home to the largest wild swan population in the country, mainly consisting of whooper swans, bewick's swans, and mute swans, with other rare waterbirds occasionally spotted. The reserve covers an area of approximately 1,100 square kilometers, and its numerous lakes and ponds are supplied by tributaries of the Kaidu River and snowmelt, forming a typical plateau wetland ecosystem.

There are two best seasons for swan watching: early March to late May in spring, when swans return to their breeding grounds from their southern wintering grounds; and early September to early November in autumn, when swans gather in large numbers in the lake area before migrating south. In June, when the chicks hatch, you can see the gray cygnets, just learning to walk, following behind their parents—a scene more moving than any written description.

The scenic area shuttle bus will stop at Swan Lake. After getting off the bus, walk along the wooden boardwalk to enjoy the view. Entering the core area of the lake is prohibited in order to protect the swans from disturbance during their breeding season.

Duku Highway: Bayinbuluke is its only town.

Duku HighwayThis is one of the most popular road trip routes in Xinjiang in recent years. The entire route is about 561 kilometers long, starting from Dushanzi in northern Xinjiang and passing through the heart of the Tianshan Mountains to Kuqa in southern Xinjiang. Along the way, there are very different landscapes such as grand canyons, alpine meadows, Narat Grassland, and snow mountain tunnels. Bayinbuluke Town is the only town on the entire road and the only option for most self-driving travelers to resupply and stay overnight.

This highway is affected by snow accumulation every year, and is usually closed in November, reopening around May of the following year. Driving the entire route takes about 10 to 12 hours (excluding time for sightseeing), and travelers usually complete it in two days, staying overnight in Bayinbuluke.

Practical Information Compilation

Tickets and Transportation

The entrance ticket to the scenic area (including Swan Lake and the Nine Turns and Eighteen Bends area) costs approximately 295 yuan during peak season. The sightseeing bus within the scenic area costs 90 yuan per person, and horseback riding is charged separately. The one-way distance from the entrance of Bayinbuluke Town to the Nine Turns and Eighteen Bends viewing platform is approximately 30 kilometers, and the shuttle bus takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes, stopping at three points along the way: Barunkure Temple, Swan Lake, and Basilike Viewing Platform.

The scenic area is open from 09:30 to 18:00. However, since the sunset time in Xinjiang is about 2 to 3 hours later than Beijing time, the actual sunset time in summer is between 8 pm and 9:30 pm. The scenic area arranges special extended sunset viewing sessions. The specific time is subject to the seasonal announcement. It is recommended to confirm with the scenic area before purchasing tickets.

stay

Bayinbuluke Town is the only accommodation option. There are several hotels in the town, with standard rooms costing around 100 to 200 yuan during peak season. The facilities are basic but meet basic needs. Rooms are in high demand during peak season (July to August), so it is strongly recommended to book at least one week in advance.

Best time to visit

Considering both overall scenery and climate conditions, June to September is the best time to visit, when the grasslands are lush and green, wildflowers are in full bloom, swans are breeding, and the sunset conditions along the winding roads are most stable. In other months, temperatures drop sharply, the grasslands turn yellow and wither, significantly diminishing the scenic quality, and some sections of the road may be closed.

Precautions for high altitude

The scenic area is at an altitude of approximately 2,500 meters. Travelers with weaker constitutions may experience mild altitude sickness. Upon arrival, they should rest adequately and avoid strenuous activity. The temperature difference between day and night can reach 15 to 20 degrees Celsius, so even in summer, a thick jacket is necessary.

Swan Lake is the largest swan sanctuary in Asia, where whooper swans and tundra swans breed and spend the summer every year. (Image source: Chinese Academy of Sciences)

Photography tips

To photograph the winding river, avoid the flat midday light. The golden hours (one hour after sunrise and two hours before sunset) offer lower light angles, allowing each bend to cast shadows and create depth. Wide-angle lenses are suitable for capturing panoramic views of the river, while telephoto lenses can compress distances and make the distant snow-capped mountains and grasslands appear more compact.

Photographing Swan Lake primarily utilizes telephoto lenses, ensuring both distance and clarity in capturing the details of the swans' feathers. The best time for photography is in the morning when the lake is calm and the reflections are clear.

Frequently Asked Questions about Bayinbulak Tourism

The August sunset lingers on the grassland for less time than expected. Those two minutes of nine sun reflections, and the Torgut people's six-month journey home, remind us of the same thing in different ways: some things, once missed, can only be waited for next year.

Further Reading:Narat Sky GrasslandIt is a must-pass place on the northern section of the Duku Highway, and it would be more cost-effective to combine it with Bayinbuluke for a single trip;Bosten LakeIt is the final destination of the Kaidu River, and it is a convenient route from Bayinbuluke without taking a detour.