First time seeingAncient Qiang City in ChinaAt the time, I was sitting on a bus from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou, half-asleep, when the driver woke me up with, "Those who need to get off to use the restroom, hurry up!" Like most tourists, I assumed it was just a highway rest stop. It wasn't until later, when I saw videos of the daily 9 AM opening ceremony on Xiaohongshu (a Chinese social media platform), that I realized what I had missed.
If you're planning a trip to western Sichuan, or simply interested in ethnic minority cultures, the following content will give you a new perspective on this "underrated transit point".
Why do most people miss this place?
MaoxianLocated halfway between Chengdu and Jiuzhaigou, most tour groups stop here for lunch and to use the restroom before continuing their journey. Tourists typically perceive it as "a tourist town selling silver jewelry and medicinal herbs." This stereotype isn't without reason, as the area is indeed rife with commercialization. However, it would be a shame to skip the entire Ancient Qiang Town because of this.
The Ancient Qiang City of China is a cultural park rebuilt after the 2008 Wenchuan earthquake. It is not a thousand-year-old ancient site, but it is currently the world's largest and most complete exhibition of Qiang culture.This location is important because it determines what you should see here. You won't see weathered city walls or stone carvings, but you will see how a people reinterpret their cultural symbols after a disaster.
This area covers more than 3,000 acres and features a Qiang ethnic museum, the Qiang King's official residence, a cluster of watchtowers, and a sacrificial square, spread from the foot of the mountain to its summit. The buildings were all reconstructed using the traditional Qiang "stone-stacking" technique, meaning they are constructed without cement, relying entirely on the weight and angle of the stones. Standing in the square and looking up, the layers of earthen-yellow watchtowers will remind you of Winterfell from Game of Thrones.
Opening Ceremony: This is the real reason to come to the Ancient Qiang City
Every morning at nine o'clock, the sound of sheepskin drums will resound in the square outside the gate of the ancient Qiang city.Missing this ceremony reduces the value of this attraction by half.
The first time I witnessed the opening ceremony of the city was on a cloudy day; the fog hadn't lifted yet, and the entire square seemed shrouded in a thin veil. The Shibi (Qiang priest), dressed in a traditional hemp robe and carrying a ram's horn staff, led a group of villagers in their finest Qiang attire as they slowly walked out of the city gate. They would first perform a ritual to worship the heavens, followed by a gun salute, a sheepskin drum dance, and a multi-part chorus of Qiang folk songs. The entire process lasted about 20 minutes, but the sheer intensity of the ceremony would give you goosebumps.
Practical details: How to watch the opening ceremony?
The ceremony takes place in the square outside the scenic area's main gate. Theoretically, you can watch from the surrounding area without a ticket, but your view can be obstructed when it's crowded. I suggest arriving around 8:30 am and finding a good spot in the front row of the square. After the ceremony, the procession will "enter the city" in a grand procession. At this point, Qiang girls and boys will "dress red" on tourists (draping red Qiang headscarves over your shoulders), creating a very lively atmosphere. Then, you'll need to have your ticket checked to enter.
If you're a photography enthusiast, I recommend bringing a telephoto lens. The shibi's expression, the drummer's movements, the backlighting through the smoke—every frame is full of tension.
How do I get around after entering the city? A route that won't hurt my knees.
The ancient Qiang city is built against the mountain, with about 500 steps from the foot to the top. Many bloggers have nicknamed it the "knee destroyer." The first time I went, I was wearing canvas shoes and regretted it halfway up. So, the conclusion is: wear comfortable walking shoes, bring a bottle of water, and don't push yourself.
Effortless route (tested by myself)
After the crowds from the opening ceremony enter the city, most tourists will head straight up. However, if you don't want to backtrack or climb the steps under the scorching sun, you can consider this order:
After entering, first explore the bottom section.China Qiang Ethnic MuseumThe museum houses nearly 10,000 cultural relics, including exquisite Qiang embroidery and artifacts rescued after the earthquake. The museum is air-conditioned, so you can take a short rest. After visiting the museum, if there's a shuttle bus available (available during peak season), you can take it directly up to the highest point, Shengshan or Tianlai Hall, and then walk downhill. This saves energy and allows you to enjoy a panoramic view of Maoxian County from the vantage point.
If there's no shuttle bus, you'll have to hike. The standard route is: Main Gate → Salang Square → Qiang King's Residence → Museum → Exit. Along the way, you'll pass many shops selling souvenirs and silver jewelry; I'll explain how to avoid these traps later.
Several golden spots for taking photos
I've photographed the ancient Qiang city several times and discovered a few angles that produce particularly stunning images. The first is shooting upwards from Salang Square, capturing the entire cluster of watchtowers; the layered, imposing feel is reminiscent of Winterfell from Game of Thrones. The second is climbing to the highest point and shooting downwards at Maoxian County, where you can see the Minjiang River flowing past the city. The third is capturing candid shots of elderly people in traditional clothing; many are genuine local residents, not actors, and their expressions and postures add a layer of narrative to the photos.
Those corners worth stopping to admire
Qiang King's Residence: A Maze-like Residence of the Tusi (chieftain)
The Qiang King's Residence is my favorite place in the entire ancient Qiang city. It recreates the royal life during the Qiang chieftain system period, and its structure is very complex, like a three-dimensional maze. The rooms are connected by narrow wooden stairs, and the floors are staggered. It is said that this design was originally for defense against external enemies.
Walking through the official residence, you will find that the Qiang architecture has a "growing upward" characteristic, with each layer seemingly growing out of the previous one.This is completely different from the traditional Han Chinese courtyard house, which is laid out flat. If you are interested in architecture, you can take a closer look at the "stone slab masonry" technique used on the walls. The stones are held in place by gravity and angle without any adhesive, and can withstand a magnitude 7 earthquake.
China Qiang Ethnic Museum: Don't just visit and leave.
Many people go to the museum just to enjoy the air conditioning and leave after a quick look. But if you really want to understand the Qiang people, this is the place with the highest density of information in the entire scenic area. The museum houses 313 national first, second, and third-class cultural relics, including Qiang shaman scriptures, Qiang embroidery clothing, and sacrificial utensils.
One exhibit left a deep impression on me: a Qiang embroidery tapestry salvaged after the earthquake, embroidered with the Qiang people's worldview. The Qiang people believe that the world is divided into three layers: heaven, earth, and the underworld, and that the Shibi (shaman) is the only person who can travel between these three worlds. This worldview is very unique and different from that of the Tibetan and Yi people.
Watchtowers: More Than Just Photo Backgrounds
The watchtower is a visual symbol of Qiang architecture, but it was not originally intended for aesthetic purposes. The Qiang people have lived for generations in high mountain valleys, and the watchtower served as their defensive fortifications, granaries, and watchtowers. An entire family could live in a single watchtower; the ground floor was used for storing grain and livestock, the middle floor for living quarters, and the top floor for observation and defense.
Looking closely at the walls of the watchtowers, you'll notice the incredibly tight gaps between the stone slabs; without cement, they've stood for centuries. This craftsmanship is now rarely practiced, as it requires extremely high levels of skill and experience.
Avoiding pitfalls: What money to spend and what traps to avoid.
After visiting the ancient Qiang city twice, I found it to be more commercialized than I had imagined. It's not that commercialization is bad, but you need to know what's truly worth experiencing and what's specifically designed to empty tourists' wallets.
Silver jewelry stores: the biggest pitfall, bar none.
There are numerous silver jewelry shops within the scenic area, selling bracelets, necklaces, tea sets, and more. If you follow the free guide, you'll most likely be led into one of these shops. The shop assistants will tell you their silver is "999% pure," "made using traditional Qiang techniques," and "crafted on-site," then they'll take out a blowtorch and burn it for you to prove it's real silver.
I've heard all those sales pitches before. The problem isn't whether the silver is real or fake (most of it is indeed real silver), but rather that the price is ridiculously inflated. An ordinary silver bracelet might cost one or two thousand yuan, but the same thing might only cost three or four hundred yuan in a reputable shop in Maoxian County.If you are not a silver jewelry connoisseur, it is recommended that you only look and not buy, or make a decision after leaving the scenic area.
The most outrageous case I've seen involved an auntie from a tour group who was persuaded to buy a silver tea set for over 8,000 yuan. After returning home, she had it appraised and discovered its market value was less than 3,000 yuan. Shopping at tourist attractions doesn't offer a seven-day no-questions-asked return policy, making refunds extremely difficult.
The tour guide's routine
At the entrance of the scenic area, guides dressed in Qiang ethnic costumes will approach you and offer to give you a free tour. Their initial explanations are indeed informative, telling you how watchtowers are built and about Qiang history. However, in the end, they will inevitably take you to a silver jewelry shop or a traditional Chinese medicine shop. Once there, they will step aside and let the shop assistants take over.
My advice is: it's fine to listen to explanations, but please skip the shopping part. Don't feel bad if someone takes you around for so long and you don't buy anything. This is a job, not a favor.
Other details to note
Maoxian County is at an altitude of about 1500 meters, so altitude sickness is unlikely, but the ultraviolet radiation is very strong and the wind is also strong. Even in summer, it is recommended to bring a light jacket to watch the opening ceremony in the morning. I once went wearing short sleeves and stood in the square in the wind for half an hour, and caught a cold on the spot.
Inside the scenic area, there are some stalls selling grilled yak skewers and barley cakes. The prices are a bit higher than outside, but not outrageous. If you get hungry, you can buy some to tide you over; you don't have to wait until you leave the scenic area.
Eating in Maoxian: More Than Just Filling Your Stomach
After visiting the ancient Qiang city, you'll usually finish around noon or in the afternoon, at which point you can choose to have lunch in Maoxian County. Many tour groups will arrange meals at designated restaurants, where the food is usually ordinary and not cheap. If you're traveling independently, you can try these dishes that locals also eat.
Maoxian Hot Pot: A Healing Treat in Winter
Maoxian's earthen hot pot is served in a copper pot, with a broth made from yak bones, and includes crispy pork, potatoes, cabbage, mushrooms, and more. The broth is incredibly delicious, and one sip will warm you right up. If you visit Maoxian in winter or early spring, after climbing the steps of the ancient Qiang city, enjoying a pot of earthen hot pot is pure bliss.
The one that left the deepest impression on me wasFengyi TownI ate at a small shop. The owner is a Qiang ethnic minority. The shop is small, with only four or five tables. Their crispy pork is fried in-house, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, and it doesn't fall apart when soaked in the soup. A pot of earthen hot pot costs about 120 yuan, enough for three people to eat their fill.
yak meat and potato cakes
Yak meat in Maoxian is cheaper than in Lhasa, but the quality is just as good. You can order dry-mixed yak meat as a cold dish, or have a yak meat hot pot. The meat is firm and chewy, unlike the soft and mushy meat of farmed cattle.
Potato cakes are a traditional snack of the Qiang ethnic group. They are made by shaping mashed potatoes into cakes and frying them until golden brown on both sides. They have a soft and chewy texture with a slightly charred aroma, and taste great with chili powder. These are also sold in tourist areas, but I recommend buying them from stalls in the county town; they are cheaper and taste more authentic.
Seasonal Limited Edition: Maoxian Crisp Plum
If you visit Maoxian County between July and September, be sure to buy a few kilograms of crisp plums. These are a specialty fruit of Maoxian; they're not large, but incredibly sweet and crisp, so juicy that they practically burst with juice when you bite into them. Fruit farmers sell them everywhere along the roadside, with prices ranging from 5 to 15 yuan per kilogram. Remember to bargain; you can usually get the price down to half.
The first time I ate Maoxian crisp plums was on a bus back to Chengdu. The driver stopped at a roadside rest stop to let everyone buy fruit. I bought two jin (about 1 kg), and the whole bus was eating them the rest of the way, filling the bus with the aroma of fruit. After that, every time I passed through Maoxian, I would bring a box back with me.
Accommodation options
There are many accommodation options in Maoxian County, ranging from budget hotels to guesthouses.I recommend staying in the central area of Fengyi Town, which is close to the ancient Qiang city and allows you to explore the town's night market in the evening.
If you want to experience more authentic Qiang culture, you can consider staying in a guesthouse in a Qiang village on the outskirts of the county. However, be aware that some remote guesthouses have basic facilities, unreliable hot water, and poor soundproofing. It's recommended to check reviews on Ctrip or Dianping first and choose those with a rating of 4.5 or higher.
Practical information: How to get there, how to buy tickets
The Ancient Qiang City of China is located in Fengyi Town, Maoxian County, Aba Prefecture, Sichuan Province, about a two-and-a-half to three-hour drive from Chengdu. If you are traveling from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou or Huanglong, you can make Maoxian a stop along the way and visit the Ancient Qiang City.
Tickets
Adult tickets usually cost around 60 RMB, but online booking often offers discounts. I recommend booking in advance before your trip.CtripOr check on Dianping (a Chinese review platform); sometimes they have package deals or group-buying prices. Seniors, children, and students get half-price or free admission; remember to bring your ID.
The opening ceremony is included in the ticket price and does not require additional payment. If you only want to watch the opening ceremony, you can stand around the square to watch (without entering the scenic area), but your view will be limited.
How to get to Maoxian County
Driving is the most convenient way. From Chengdu, take the Chengguan Expressway, then the Duwen Expressway, and follow National Highway G213 all the way to Maoxian. The road conditions are excellent throughout; it's all main roads, without any narrow mountain roads where passing is difficult. If you go in summer, you can also see the spectacular scenery of the Minjiang River Gorge along the way.
If you're not driving, you can take a bus from Chengdu Chadianzi Bus Station. There are many direct buses to Maoxian County, the fare is around 70 yuan, and the journey takes about three hours. After arriving at Maoxian Bus Station, it's about a 10-minute taxi ride or walk to the Ancient Qiang City.
Recommended stay time
If you're just doing a quick look around, two hours is enough to see everything. But if you want to see the opening ceremony, explore the museums properly, and climb to the highest point for photos, it's recommended to allow 3 to 4 hours. Including meals and rest, half a day is a comfortable pace for Maoxian County.
Qiang ethnic dance at a slow pace
The Qiang ethnic dance captured on camera is quite captivating: the costumes are magnificent, the drumbeats are powerful, and you can even see some traditional ritual movements. The pace of the video is not fast, but precisely because of this, it allows you to fully experience the atmosphere of the local culture.
Scrolling through the comments section, most people found the dance and costumes very distinctive, and many simply enjoyed this kind of travel content with a folk documentary feel. However, I noticed that many reactions were actually expressions of novelty like "Wow, this is the first time I've seen this," rather than a genuine understanding of Qiang culture. This is actually quite common; when we package culture as a performance, audiences easily only remember the visual impact, while ignoring the daily life and historical context behind it.
To be honest, this film is more like a lightweight cultural and scenic documentary. If you're looking for travel inspiration or a quick overview of what Qiang cities are like, it's suitable. But if you're expecting an in-depth introduction to ethnic history or how dance culture evolved, you might be a little disappointed—it leans more towards a sightseeing documentary than a cultural studies approach.
Final words
The Ancient Qiang City of China isn't the kind of tourist attraction that will leave you breathless and screaming with amazement; its value lies in its details and its underlying structure. If you're willing to take the time to learn about the history, architectural techniques, and sacrificial culture of the Qiang people, you'll discover that it's actually a living ethnographic museum.
Many people see it as a rest stop on the way to Jiuzhaigou, but for me, it is more like an entry point to understanding the culture of ethnic minorities in western Sichuan.You'll see how a people rebuild their cultural symbols after a disaster, and you'll also see the tension between commercialization and cultural preservation. These contradictions and tensions, in fact, make this place more authentic.
Watching the city opening ceremony, climbing a watchtower, enjoying a pot of local hot pot, and buying a couple of pounds of crisp plums—that's the right way to experience Maoxian. As for the silver jewelry shops and sales pitches within the scenic area, just treat them as background noise. Hold onto your wallet, enjoy the scenery, and avoid shopping.
Related FAQs
Q: Is the Ancient Qiang City in China a genuine historical site or a reconstruction?
This is a reconstructed cultural park, not a thousand-year-old historical site. After the devastating Wenchuan earthquake in 2008, many Qiang villages were destroyed, and the government rebuilt this ancient Qiang city in Maoxian County as a cultural exhibition site. Although it is not an original historical site, the architectural techniques and cultural connotations follow Qiang traditions. What you see here is not just artifacts, but a cultural symbol of an ethnic group.
Q: Is the opening ceremony held every day? Will it be canceled on rainy days?
The opening ceremony is held every morning at 9:00 AM, including rainy days and the off-season. I've been twice; once on a cloudy and foggy day, and once on a sunny day, and both times it proceeded as planned. The only possible cancellation is in extreme weather (such as heavy rain or snow), but this is rare. I recommend arriving at 8:30 AM to secure a good spot.
Q: Are the silver ornaments sold in the scenic area worth buying?
Unless you're a connoisseur of silver jewelry, I don't recommend buying anything inside the scenic area. It's not that the items are fake, but the prices are inflated. The same items would be much cheaper in reputable shops in Maoxian County or Chengdu. If you really want to buy souvenirs with Qiang ethnic characteristics, consider Qiang embroidered handkerchiefs or small pendants; they're inexpensive and quite practical.
Q: What is the altitude of Maoxian County? Is there a risk of altitude sickness?
Maoxian County is at an altitude of about 1,500 meters, and the highest point of the ancient Qiang city is only a little over 1,600 meters, so there is basically no risk of altitude sickness. However, the ultraviolet radiation is quite strong, and the wind is also strong, so remember to take precautions against sunburn and keep warm. If you are coming directly from the plains, you may find climbing stairs tiring, but this has nothing to do with altitude sickness; it's simply because there are many stairs.
Q: Is it suitable for bringing children or the elderly?
The opening ceremony is a great family affair; children will find it exciting, and the elderly can enjoy it while seated. However, there are many steps within the scenic area, so if the elderly or children are not physically fit, it's recommended to only explore the museum and plaza at the bottom and not attempt to climb to the top. Shuttle buses may be available during peak season; you can inquire with景区 staff beforehand.
Q: Are there any other tourist attractions in Maoxian County besides the Ancient Qiang City?
There are also natural scenic spots around Maoxian County, such as Diexi Lake and Songpinggou, which you can visit if you have enough time. However, if you're just using Maoxian as a stopover on your way to Jiuzhaigou, the ancient Qiang town and the local cuisine will suffice. Don't overschedule your trip; allow some time to explore at your own pace and truly immerse yourself in the atmosphere.
Q: What is the best season to go?
Personally, I recommend autumn (September to November). The weather is cool, the UV rays aren't too strong, and Maoxian's crisp plums and apples are in season. Spring (March to May) is also nice, but the temperature difference between day and night is significant, so bring an extra jacket. Summer is peak tourist season, so it can be crowded, but the atmosphere for the opening ceremony is the best. Winter is quite cold, so I wouldn't recommend it.
